Stop Fighting With Your IR Lamps
If you’ve ever run a PET blow molding line, you know the headache. You need a replacement lamp, but finding one that actually fits—without having to rewire the entire machine or mess with the electrical logic—is a nightmare. We get it. That’s why we build our infrared lamps to be simple, drop-in replacements. Whether you’re running Sidel or another big global brand, our goal is to make sure the lamp just works. No fuss, no modifications. Getting the heat right Here’s the thing: if you don’t get the heat density spot on, you either end up with cold spots or you scorch the plastic. It’s a delicate balance. For those 300mm or 400mm tubes, we usually play around with 1500W to 2500W to keep everything uniform. We use high-voltage specs (230V or 400V) to move that energy, but we’re careful. If you cram too much wattage into a short tube, it’ll burn out way too fast. We balance the filament load so you aren’t replacing lamps every other week. The secret is in the glass We use high-purity quartz and halogen gas. Why? Because it stops the filament from evaporating too quickly. But the real magic is the coating. We use infrared-reflective coatings that push the heat forward, right into the PET preform. Without that, the heat just bleeds back into the oven frame, which is a waste of energy. Plus, we stick to the standard R7s and Sk15 bases. You just pop them into your existing sockets and you’re good to go. No new controllers, no soldering, no stress. One quick tip on lifespan These lamps put out a massive amount of heat. That’s great for high-cycle production because you ramp up fast, but it does put a lot of pressure on your cooling fans. If your ventilation is clogged or just too weak, the ambient heat will eat your lamps alive. Keep your airflow clear. It’s the easiest way to make sure you actually get the full lifespan out of the quartz.